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Grade it on things you can measure.

Hand-loomed ikat and plain-weave cotton bought in agreed lots directly from the production side, with a stated minimum, tiered pricing, a defined quality grade and export documentation prepared for the destination market.

Single panel width
45–70cm
Grading points
5
Ordering formats
5
Pahikung band worked in blue, red and white supplementary warp
Pahikung band worked in blue, red and white supplementary warp

How is quality graded before a lot is confirmed?

Grading in handwoven cloth rests on measurable things, not adjectives. A lot is described against five points and priced accordingly — and a buyer who says which of them matters most for their market gets a better lot than one who simply asks for the best price.

  • Yarn: handspun cotton, machine-spun cotton, or a blend, stated explicitly per lot.
  • Dye: natural dyes such as indigo and morinda root, synthetic dyes, or a combination.
  • Registration: how crisply the resist-dyed pattern edges align when the warp is stretched.
  • Density: threads per centimetre, which drives drape, weight and durability.
  • Finish: selvedge tightness, fringe treatment, seam quality on joined panels.

A gift retailer and a museum shop are optimising for different variables, and both are legitimate.

What does a wholesale lot from Sumba actually contain?

Five formats

Because Sumba weaving is done on a backstrap loom, a single panel is generally between 45 and 70 cm wide, and everything wider is two panels joined at a centre seam. That single constraint shapes the whole catalogue: lots are built from formats the loom produces naturally rather than from arbitrary dimensions.

Hinggi-scale panels

Typical use for the buyer

Wall art, throws, statement retail pieces

Ordering unit

Per piece, often in pairs

Narrow yardage

Typical use for the buyer

Cut-and-sew, fashion, accessories

Ordering unit

Per metre or per warp length

Runners

Typical use for the buyer

Table and bed dressing, gift retail

Ordering unit

Per piece, per size band

Cushion-face cuts

Typical use for the buyer

Home textile assembly

Ordering unit

Per piece or per bundle

Mixed assortment cartons

Typical use for the buyer

Shop opening stock, market testing

Ordering unit

Per carton, curated mix

Three ways to plan for dye variance

Natural dye baths are built up through repeated dipping and drying cycles, so two lots dyed weeks apart will not be identical, and no honest supplier will claim otherwise. Planning for variance is a commercial decision made at quotation stage, not a problem discovered on arrival.

  1. 01

    One dye run

    Order the whole season in a single run and accept a longer lead time.

  2. 02

    Agreed tolerance

    Set a range against a retained reference piece, and let the variation become part of the product story.

  3. 03

    Synthetic dyes

    Where absolute repeatability outranks provenance. A valid choice for some price points, and one that should be stated openly to end customers.

Sumba ikat cloth laid flat, red and white pattern on a near-black ground

Why minimum order quantity is structured the way it is

Dressing a loom for a specific width and warp length is a fixed setup cost paid in labour before any cloth exists, which is why per-piece prices fall as the run gets longer. Minimums exist to make that setup worth doing rather than to gatekeep buyers.

Stock formats therefore carry low minimums, because the setup has already happened. Custom widths, non-standard lengths or a specific motif in a specific colourway carry higher minimums because they require a dedicated warp. Testing a market? Start with a mixed assortment from stock and move to custom runs once a bestseller emerges.

Ask about minimums for your mix

From enquiry to shipment

The same sequence for a first-time buyer and a repeat account, except that repeat orders skip sampling when a reference piece is already held on both sides.

  1. 01

    Enquiry

    Destination market, target formats, indicative quantity and price band.

  2. 02

    Offer

    Available stock, grade description, per-unit pricing at two or three volume tiers.

  3. 03

    Sampling

    Physical samples sent, or a stock piece reserved as the reference.

  4. 04

    Confirmation

    Quantities, grade, tolerance, packing method and delivery window fixed in writing.

  5. 05

    Production or picking

    Custom lots are woven and dyed; stock lots are picked and checked.

  6. 06

    Inspection

    Piece count, dimensions and grade verified against the confirmed specification.

  7. 07

    Documentation and dispatch

    Commercial invoice, packing list, and any origin or fibre documentation the destination requires.

Confirm three things on your own side before confirming a lot: the labelling standard your retail channel enforces, whether your customs regime treats handwoven cloth differently from mill-made textiles, and the packing format your warehouse can receive. Agreeing these at quotation stage prevents rework at the port.

Frequently asked questions

Four questions

Next step

Send the market, the formats and the price band you work in.

We send available stock, grade descriptions and tiered pricing. First-time buyers are welcome to start with a small assortment before committing to a season.